Three: Advanced Combat
the Advanced Combat rules, things get a little more complex.
A unit making an attack still makes his Skill Roll against the
Usage Rating of his weapon, and if he hits, the target still
makes an Armor Roll against the Damage. But in certain
situations, the Skill Roll may receive Skill Modifiers making
it more or less difficult to hit, and there are many different
ways a target can take Damage.
Basic Combat, when you fire a ranged weapon and miss, standard
practice is to feel momentarily disappointed and then move
on to the next attack. In Advanced Combat, there are
a number of situations in which you'll want to find out exactly
where the missed shot went. If you launch a missile, it might
miss by a few inches but still catch the target in the blast
radius; if you throw a knife, you'll want to see where it
lands so you can pick it up again later. If you fire
a laser at a base wall, you might miss the section you were
aiming for but still hit another part of the base a few inches
away. If you fire an assault rifle at a Trooper standing
in a crowd of bystanders, you'll want to see who the innocent
time you make a ranged attack (throwing, firing, or launching
a weapon) and you fail the Attack Roll, figure out exactly
how much you missed your Attack Roll by - this is your MissedBy
MissedBy number is whatever roll you needed to hit, minus
whatever roll you actually made. For example: suppose you
needed to roll a five to hit a certain target, but you only
rolled a two; your MissedBy number would be five minus two,
MissedBy number determines the maximum number of inches your
shot may have missed by, depending on what kind of ranged
attack you were making. If a minifig was throwing an
object, then the shot missed by as much as (½ x MissedBy)
inches. If a minifig was firing a ranged weapon (a rifle,
bow and arrow, bazooka, etc.) or using some kind of object
launcher (a baseball bat, spearthrower, golf clubs, sling,
etc.), then the shot missed by as much as (MissedBy) inches.
If a Siege Weapon is fired (a catapult, surface-to-air missile,
Vulcan cannon, battleship deck gun, etc.), then the shot missed
by as much as (2 x MissedBy) inches. If a
weapon is fired onto the battlefield from somewhere outside
the battlefield (an ICBM, a blast from the DeathStar, etc.)
then the shot missed by as much as (4 x MissedBy)
shot lands somewhere within this many inches of the target,
within whatever space the attack could normally reach.
The shot cannot land outside the attacker's maximum range
or outside the firing arc of the weapon (45 degrees to either
side for weapons mounted on turrets or carried by Troopers;
45 degrees total arc for other weapons). The shot cannot
land within three inches of the weapon firing it (most weapons
are designed in such a way that they cannot hit themselves),
unless the attacker was firing at something less than three
inches away from itself. The shot cannot hit a target
that is hidden behind another object, nor can it hit the side
of a target facing away from the weapon being fired.
whose flight paths describe parametric arcs - i.e. ballistic
weapons and thrown weapons - have no limit on their firing
arc, can hit targets behind other targets, and are perfectly
capable of hitting their own launchers.)
do you decide where in this area your shot landed? That
bad news is, you don't - your opponent does. (If you
have more than one opponent, this will be the opponent whose
unit you were targeting. If you were not targeting any
of your opponents' units, then choose whichever opponent is
most opposed to letting you hit your intended target.)
Your opponent may choose any target within this area, including
the original intended target or a different part of the intended
target, but most often he will choose 'neutral' targets like
trees or the ground or the sky. He may also choose to
target another unit in the target area that is controlled
either by you (or your allies) or himself (or his allies).
He is not allowed to target a unit controlled by any other
players. (He can target the ground immediately next
to them if he likes, in order to catch them in a BlastRadius.)
If there are no interesting alternate targets in the NearMiss
area hit, or if neither you nor your opponent(s) have any
interest in calculating where the NearMiss landed for a given
shot, don't bother using the NearMiss rules for that attack.
Pretend that that shot flew off into the sky and hit nothing
of any importance. If a weapon was thrown, drop the
weapon on the ground next to the target.
you wish NearMiss rules were a little more consistent,
you may want to use a more geometric system instead of
figuring inches after every shot. Your shot now
misses by up to (MissedBy x 7.5) degrees, within the maximum
range of the weapon, regardless of what kind of ranged
attack you're making.
Rule: Geometric NearMisses
of you are already groaning at the thought of the protractors
and straightedges involved, and that's why this rule
is strictly optional. However, with a standard
clear thirty-sixty triangle (you'll want a pretty large
one) and a little preparation, this is easier than it
may first appear.
the right is a picture of our Official BrikWars 30-60
not available in stores. We've taken a red marker
to the back of a clear ruled plastic triangle and marked
off six lines at intervals of 7.5 degrees. On
the front of the triangle, we've marked the MissedBy
number corresponding to each line. Using this
triangle, we can quickly place any shot with a MissedBy
number up to 8.
you don't have a 30-60 triangle, you can find angles
with PBB slopes The angle of a 1x2 sloped Brik
is just about forty-five degrees, a 1x3 sloped Brik
is slanted at just about thirty, and a regular rectangular
Brik has perfect ninety-degree corners. Using
these slopes as guidelines (singly or in combinations),
you can estimate any angle you might want. However,
using this method is almost certainly more trouble than
it is worth, and should be avoided except in emergency
are a number of situations that affect the difficulty of hitting
a target with a ranged attack. These situations are
given Skill Modifiers, which are added to or subtracted from
a soldier's Skill when firing. A positive Skill Modifier
means the soldier is firing under advantageous conditions,
and a negative modifier means the shot is more difficult than
a soldier wants to improve his chances at hitting a target,
he can put some extra effort into aiming. If a unit
stands still and aims for his full turn, he fires at +2 Skill.
A soldier gets no bonus for aiming at a target he can't see.
fast-moving or distant target is more difficult to hit.
A target that has not moved for a turn or more is targeted
at +1 to Skill. A target that is moving quickly is targeted
at -1 to Skill for every full 6" it moved on its last
turn. If a unit is moving quickly when it makes its
attack, it fires at an additional -1 to Skill for every full
6" it moves in its turn. A unit firing at a target
15" away or more has -1 to Skill, and an additional -1
for every additional 5" of distance beyond 15".
If a unit attacks a target that is both distant and fast-moving,
only the larger of the two Skill Penalties applies.
the target is entirely hidden, then it is very hard to hit.
If the target is entirely hidden, but the attacker somehow
knows exactly where he is (maybe the cover is just that small,
maybe the attacker is psychic, whatever), he can try to shoot
the target through its cover. He does so at -5 to Skill,
and whatever damage he does has to get through the Armor Rating
of the cover. The target takes however much damage is
left over after punching through the cover.
targets are assumed to be about the size of a minifig.
If a target is very small, or if it is behind enough cover
that only a very small target area is exposed to attack, then
it is harder to hit. If the target area is half the
size of a typical minifig or smaller, it is attacked at -1
to Skill. If it is the size of a minifig's head or smaller,
it is attacked at -2 to Skill. If it is the size of
a minifig's hand or smaller, it is attacked at -3 to Skill.
When calculating NearMisses, Skill Penalties from small target
areas do not increase the MissedBy number. If the Skill
Penalty from a small target area makes the difference between
a successful attack and a miss, the attack has a MissedBy
number of 1.
Attacking on an Opponent's Turn
your only chance to hit an enemy is by pulling off a snap
shot when he's running from one piece of cover to the next.
This is called Opportunity Fire. If a soldier or unit
did not make any attacks on his previous turn and is holding
his weapon in a ready position, he can make an attack during
his opponent's Movement Phase, when an enemy unit moves into
his field of fire (becoming a Target of Opportunity).
fires at -2 to skill, and cannot take any bonuses from aiming.
soldier can avoid this -2 Skill Penalty if he specifically
prepares to attack Targets of Opportunity at the end of his
turn. This is useful when a player wants to have one
squad provide cover for another when advancing through open
terrain, or when he orders his troops manning the base guns
to fire at anything that moves (outside the base, that is).
You can tell a soldier is prepared to attack Targets of Opportunity
because he is kneeling or lying down. (Changing to a
kneeling or prone position, or getting back up from one, takes
1" of Movement. To make a minifig kneel properly,
turn his legs backwards.)
some cases, soldiers cannot kneel or lie down and still have
a good shot at the area they want to cover; in this case,
you must announce that your soldier is readying himself to
attack Targets of Opportunity and put him in some kind of
a ready position. Even if he is already in the correct
position, 'Getting Ready for Opportunity Fire' takes 1"
of Movement, and he must spend 1" of Movement 'Returning
to Normal' on the following turn before he can move normally.
an enemy unit moves to make a Close Combat attack on one of
your soldiers, your soldier may take an opportunity attack
on the enemy unit first, if your soldier's Close Combat weapon
is significantly longer than the enemy's (e.g., a Halberd
vs. a Saber, a Spear vs. a Hatchet, etc.). If the enemy
comes in range of your soldier's Close Combat weapon but does
not attempt to engage your soldier in Close Combat, your soldier
may also make an opportunity attack. Close Combat troops
who are prepared to attack Targets of Opportunity hold their
weapons over their heads rather than kneeling.
driving Vehicles may prepare themselves for Opportunity Fire
if their Vehicle is not moving. Gunners who have been
at their post for a full turn or more are always prepared
for Opportunity Fire, unless for some reason they are at less
than full alert. Computer-controlled guns can never
prepare for Opportunity Fire, because even in the future,
computers made of ABS have slow reflexes and poor target-anticipation
soldier's field of fire includes whatever he can see (a soldier's
field of vision extends to 45 degrees on either side of whichever
direction his face is pointing), within the range of his weapon.
A siege weapon on a turret or hinge can fire at anything within
the field of vision of the soldier controlling it, within
the range of the siege weapon, within the range of how far
the turret or hinge can turn to point at the target.
A 'fixed' siege weapon (one not on a turret or hinge) is limited
to a 45 degree cone of fire (i.e., 22.5 degrees to either
side of the direction the fixed weapon barrel is pointing).
are a couple of situations that affect the difficulty of close
combat as well. As in ranged combat, close combat weapons
can be used in Opportunity Fire, and the same bonuses and
penalties for speed apply. There's no point in standing
around aiming close combat weapons, and NearMiss rules do
not apply to Close Combat (unless you're feeling like being
a little ridiculous, in which case Close Combat attacks miss
by up to (MissedBy / 4) inches). Units using
Close Combat weapons get a +5 bonus to hit inanimate targets
like trees, mailboxes, dead horses, etc. (if you bother rolling
at all). If a unit is standing in or on a moving vehicle,
he may attack the vehicle as if it were an inanimate object,
unless he attacks a part that is moving relative to the part
of the vehicle on which he is standing.
The biggest difference between ranged combat and close combat
is that every turn two minifigs are locked in combat, both
of them get to try to whack the arms, legs, heads, and torsos
off of each other. Every time one minifig attacks another
with a close combat weapon, if the other one survives and
has a close combat weapon of his own, he has the chance to
counterattack. A minifig with two close combat weapons
can attack with both of them in a single turn - if his target
also has a second close combat weapon, he gets a second counterattack.
Even if the target minifig has more close combat weapons than
the attacking minifig, he only gets as many counterattacks
as the number of times he is attacked. If a minifig
has both hands free, he can use his fists as a single close
combat weapon (not as two separate weapons). In a pinch,
most ranged weapons or pieces of equipment can be used as
bludgeoning weapons (using the statistics for Shovels and
there's a really tough guy on the field who's causing you
trouble, you can send a bunch of your guys to gang up on him.
The defender gets a separate set of counterattacks against
each attacker, but every successive attacker incurs a cumulative
-2 penalty to the defender's Skill and Armor rolls.
For instance, a Trooper who gets dog-piled by three enemy
Troopers would defend with his regular AR and counterattack
at unmodified Skill against the first, at -2 against the second,
and (if he survives that long) -4 against the third.
No more than four minifigs can gang up on any single enemy
minifig at a time, otherwise it gets so crowded they start
hacking off each others' limbs by accident.
a unit tries to break out of close combat, his opponents each
get one free attack on him with one weapon, and he gets no
Some special units have a Close Combat Bonus. This bonus
applies only when the unit is engaged in close combat, or
when it throws a close combat weapon. The bonus is added
to their Attack Roll every time they attack with a close combat
weapon, and if they hit, the bonus is also added to their
Damage Roll. The bonus is also added to their Armor
Roll when defending against a Close Combat attack, or against
a thrown Close Combat weapon.
minifig or robot who is especially strong will do more damage
with Close Combat Weapons. If the unit's Power rating
is more than one, multiply the damage from the Close Combat
Weapon by the unit's Power rating. However, the weapon
will break if it does more than its maximum damage in a single
attack, depending on what the weapon is made out of:
Damage Before Breaking
(gray or black)
(gray or black)
More Ways to Die
given the Troopers a whole slew of weapons and toys with which
they can blow each other to pieces, and yet they still beg
for more ways to kill each other. You can't fault their
dedication. So, besides the basic Attack Roll / Damage
Roll sequence, there are a couple of other ways for the eager
general to get his soldiers killed, if he's willing to put
up with a few extra rules.
Damage / Combined Fire
of all, if you have a bunch of units making attacks on a single
unit, you can decide to do Cumulative Damage. Roll all
the units' attacks, and for however many of them hit, add
the damage together and roll it all at once. In certain
situations you might opt not to do Cumulative Damage, or to
break it up into smaller sets of Cumulative Damage.
You have nine units who can fire on a single heavily armored
enemy Trooper. You figure three will be enough to take
him down, leaving the other six available to shoot other targets.
You roll the three troopers' attacks, and two of them hit,
doing enough damage to obliterate the Trooper. Unfortunately,
the Trooper rolled an Automatic Success on his Armor Roll,
so he laughs it off. You then decide to use three of
the six remaining units in another attempt. This time
you succeed, and the Trooper is toast. You now have
three units left to attack other targets.
the target you are attempting to do Cumulative Damage to is
very large, like a building or a Giant Agdern Monster, one
of your units trying to take part in the Cumulative Damage
may miss his Attack Roll but come close enough to still hit
the target somewhere else. The damage from his attack
is handled separately and is not counted in with the Cumulative
your target has a high Armor rating, like a concrete embankment
or a steamroller, it might be impossible for you to do enough
damage in one turn to destroy it. For targets with more
than 10 points of Armor (10 points = 2d10-1 = 3d6-1), you
can choose to do Cumulative Damage over a series of turns.
Every turn that you do Cumulative Damage to a specific area
on the target but do not destroy it, half of the total damage
is added to that area's Permanent Damage at the end of the
turn. (Put red Pips next to the affected area to signify
how much Permanent Damage it has taken.) Different parts
of an object may have different amounts of Permanent Damage.
This Permanent Damage is added to the Damage Roll every time
Cumulative Damage is done to that area of the target.
Eventually, this will allow (for instance) gangs of Troopers
to bash down doors with battering rams or chop down trees
may decide that soldiers can only do Cumulative
Damage if someone organizes the operation - combined
assaults cannot happen at random. In this
case, a minifig may only order a combined attack
Rule: Organized Attacks
is a Squad's communications officer (he has
a radio), in which case any member of the
squad within shouting distance (8") may
take part in the combined attack;
is piloting a vehicle with radio communication,
in which case any other vehicle with radio
communication may join him in a combined attack;
is a Hero, a Champion, or an authority figure
in general, in which case he can order any
subordinate units within communication range
to join in a combined attack. Communication
range will vary depending on the communication
equipment used (2.4.2:
standing too close to an explosion may be caught in the blast
radius. Any weapon with damage measured in d10's (regular
explosives) or d20's (radioactive, plasma, or concussion explosives)
does Explosion Damage.
When an explosion goes off, it does full damage to everything
within 2", damage minus one die to everything within
the next two inches, damage minus two dice to everything within
the next two inches, and so on until there are no more dice.
A Trooper standing five inches away when a MkIII Grenade goes
off takes (3d10+3)-2d10 or 1d10+3 damage. His friend standing
one inch from the grenade takes the full 3d10+3 damage.
that is not nailed down when an explosion hits, regardless
of whether or not it survives the explosion, will be knocked
back 1" for every die of damage it takes. Things
that are nailed down, like trees and walls, will only be knocked
back if they do not survive the Explosion Damage.
projectiles such as CannonBalls or boulders launched from
Catapults can hit hard enough to create explosions from concussion
alone, but most explosions will be caused by some sort of
chemical or energy reaction. The intense heat created
in these types of explosions tends to set everything in the
blast radius on fire. In such an explosion, for every
die that comes up as an 8 or greater (on either 1d10s or 1d20s)
in a target object's Explosion Damage Roll, the affected object's
Burn Level gains 1d6 (3.3.5:
Fire!). In this manner, the object's
Burn Level may be raised higher than what would normally be
the object's maximum Burn Level.
If a unit takes cover behind a wall of sandbags or a big truck
or some other large object, it can avoid taking damage from
the explosion. However, if the cover object is destroyed,
or if it is knocked back far enough that it strikes the unit
it is protecting, the unit will take regular explosion damage
minus the armor rating of the object he was using for cover.
Example: A Trooper is standing 2" away from a
1d10 Brik wall. On the other side of the wall, a 3d10+3
explosion goes off. The wall is an inch away from the
explosion, so it takes full damage. The explosion rolls
6+4+3 or 13 for Damage and the wall rolls a 7 for its Armor;
the explosion's roll is higher. The wall is destroyed
and knocked back 3", smacking into the Trooper on the
other side. (If the wall had survived, he would have
been fine.) The Trooper is 3" away from the explosion,
so he takes 2d10+3 damage, minus the 1d10 armor of the wall,
for a total of 1d10+3. Miraculously, the explosion rolls
a 2 on its 1d10, doing only 5 points total damage. The
Trooper is knocked back 1" but survives with only a few
bruises and scrapes. It might take him a little while
to get out from under the wall, however.
3.3.3 Getting Smacked Around and
a soldier will be betrayed by his environment. This
may involve falling from great heights, having heavy objects
dropped on him from great heights, having heavy objects smack
into him at high speed, being tied to heavy objects and dropped
into the ocean, finding himself trapped at the bottom of a
well, etc. Things like this are covered in the Moving
Around and Brik Physix sections of this
didn't really write any rules for dismembering your opponents,
but if you decide a minifig has lost an extremity or limb
for some reason, he's going to lose a lot of blood.
He takes 1d6 damage per turn until he gets some kind of first
aid and bandaging or until the wound is cauterized, and he
is at -2 Skill until he can spend some serious down-time in
Fires come in three Burn Levels: 1d6, 2d6, and 3d6.
When an object catches on fire, pile a bunch of fire-colored
brix so it is clear to everyone that it is on fire.
For a 1d6 fire, a pile of yellow brix will do; for a 2d6 fire,
yellow and red brix; for a 3d6 fire, use white, yellow, and
red brix together. This way you'll have no problem telling
how hot a fire is. (You may also decide just to stack
yellow Pips next to a flaming object to show how hot it is,
although this is not as aesthetically pleasing.)
explosions, or when flammable fuels are used, hotter fires
are sometimes possible. For a 4d6 fire, use white brix
only; for a 5d6 fire, white and blue brix; for a 6d6 fire,
blue brix only. Fires hotter than 6d6 are not normally
possible unless you're fighting a battle on the surface of
or anything that is on fire takes Fire Damage equal to its
Burn Level (i.e. a 2d6 fire would do 2d6 of Fire Damage to
its victim), at the beginning of every turn. If this
damage is enough to destroy the target, it is 'burned down'
(if it is something like a tree or a grass hut) or 'burned
to death' (if it is something like a Trooper or a SpaceMonkey).
die that comes up a one on the Fire Damage Roll means that
the fire died down a level (it loses 1d6 from its Burn Level
for every die that comes up one). If the burning victim
spends a turn rolling around in the dirt or getting sprayed
with a fire extinguisher, the fire rating also goes down by
1d6. If the Burn Level is reduced to zero, then the
fire has gone out. If the burning object jumps in a
lake or is in airless space or is otherwise submerged in some
liquid (besides something like molten lava or gasoline), the
fire goes out.
die that comes up a five or a six on the Fire Damage Roll
means that the fire blazed up a level (its Burn Level gains
1d6), limited to the object's maximum Burn Level. How
hot a fire can burn is determined by the size of the object
burning. An equipment-sized object, like a book or a
chair, burns at a maximum of 1d6. A minifig-sized object,
such as a Trooper or a log in a fire pit, burns at a maximum
of 2d6. Larger objects, such as trees, houses, or FireTrux,
burn at a maximum heat of 3d6.
any object whose Burn Level has somehow been raised higher
than its maximum Burn Level (most frequently because the object
was recently involved in an explosion), the object's Burn
Level automatically loses 1d6 at the beginning of every turn,
after the Fire Damage Roll has been made.
soaked in gasoline burn at 4d6 as soon as they are exposed
to heat; jet and rocket fuel burn at 5d6, nuclear and plasma
fuels at 6d6. The fuel quickly burns off, and the object's
Burn Level automatically loses 1d6 per turn as above, until
it reaches its normal maximum Burn Level.
time an object that is on fire touches or is touched by a
flammable object, roll the first object's Burn Level.
For every die that comes up six, the second object catches
fire and gains 1d6 of Burn Level. (The second object's
Burn Level rating cannot be raised higher than the first object's
in this manner, nor can it be raised higher than its own maximum
Burn Level.) Some things do not burn, like concrete
or dirt or oceans. Some things explode when they burn,
like dynamite and vehicles running on fossil fuels.
a fire is started on some large flammable object or area (like
a forest or a Roman slave galley), the whole thing doesn't
go up all at once - the fire takes a little while to spread.
A fire spreads by as many inches per turn as it has d6es in
its Burn Level (e.g., a 1d6 fire would spread at 1" per
turn; a 4d6 fire spreads at 4" per turn, etc).
It is not a good idea to get too close to a fire - the flames
extend for 1" around the burning object at full strength;
they lose 1d6 of Burn Level for every inch further from the
burning object (e.g., a Trooper standing 2" away from
a 4d6 gasoline fire would be exposed to 3d6 flames; his brother
standing 4" away would be exposed to the heat of a 1d6
suggest you don't go crazy with FlameThrowers and FireBombs
in your battles, because while fire is a lot of fun once in
a while, all those extra die rolls are a pain to deal with
on any kind of a regular basis.
3.3.6 Getting Stunned
types of attacks do Stun Damage rather than regular Damage.
Most Stun attacks only work on certain types of targets -
living beings and electrical systems being the most commonly
affected (although clever attacks may produce Stun effects
in other targets - a MonkeyWrench in a giant Robot's gears,
for instance). If a unit takes more Stun damage than
its Armor Roll, or if a combination of Stun Damage and regular
Damage is more than the unit's Armor Roll, then the unit is
Stunned. A Stunned unit has half Power (round down)
and moves at half speed (round down). If a unit takes
enough Stun Damage to Stun it when it is already Stunned,
it is Disabled (in the case of machines) or Unconscious (in
the case of a living being). If a Disabled or Unconscious
unit is Stunned a third time, then it is killed or destroyed.
Stunned minifig generally crawls around on its stomach; an
Unconscious minifig lies on its back. This makes it
easy to tell which minifigs are Stunned or Unconscious.
If for some reason you need your Stunned minifig to stagger
around in an upright position, put one gray Pip next to it
so that you don't forget that it's Stunned.
recover from Stun Damage, roll 1d6 at the end of the unit's
turn. On a roll of 6, an Unconscious or Disabled unit
becomes merely Stunned, and a Stunned unit returns to normal.
with arms and hands, or other grabbing appendages (like robo-claws
or big crocodile mouths), can grab other units. If the
target unit would prefer not to be grabbed, then both units
must make a Skill Roll, plus any Close Combat bonuses they
may have. If the defender is carrying or wearing any
equipment that gives bonuses to his Armor (e.g., from a shield
or PlateArmor), those bonuses are added to his Skill Roll;
if either combatant is carrying equipment that incurs a Movement
Penalty, that penalty is subtracted from his Skill Roll.
the attacker's roll is higher, then he has successfully grabbed
the defender. If the defender's roll is higher, not
only has the attacker failed to grab him, but if the defender
wishes then he has grabbed the attacker instead. If
the roll is a tie, then neither opponent has grabbed the other.
a unit has grabbed another unit, he may do with him as he
pleases! If the unit is strong enough, he can pick up
the other unit and throw him or use whatever pro wrestling
move he fancies. If he is not strong enough to lift
the other unit, he can hold it in place (if he is as strong
or stronger than the grabbed unit) or at least slow it down
(since the grabbed unit is now forced to drag him around).
a unit has been grabbed and is not happy with the situation,
it may try to break free. The grabber and grabbee each
roll as many d6es as they have points in their respective
Power ratings. If the grabbed unit rolls higher than
the unit grabbing it, then it has broken the grabbing unit's
grip and can escape.
units are susceptible to some form of poison. Minifigs
and animals may be bitten by poisonous spiders or cut by envenomed
blades. Computers and androids may be infected with
ComputerViruses. Undead creatures may get spritzed with
HolyWater. Princesses may wake up to find Timmy kissing
each case, the poison does no damage on the turn it is received.
The affected unit receives a number of Poison Points, indicated
by green Pips stacked next to him. From that point on,
every time the unit begins a new turn, it takes 1d6 Poison
Damage for each point in its Poison Rating. If this
damage is more than the unit's Armor Roll, the unit's condition
worsens. A healthy unit becomes Exhausted, an Exhausted
unit becomes Unconscious, and an Unconscious unit becomes
Dead. For every die that comes up '1' on the Poison
Roll, remove one point from the unit's Poison Rating - the
poison has run its course.
a Medik gives Medikal treatment to a poisoned unit, he can
remove 1d6-3 points per turn from the unit's Poison Rating.
a player wishes to create a poisoned weapon, it costs 1 CP
per Poison Point. Whenever the weapon does damage to
a vulnerable target, roll 1d6 for each point in the weapon's
Poison Rating. For every die that comes up '6,' the
unfortunate target receives an additional Poison Point.
unit that bites or eats a unit that has been poisoned runs
the risk of being poisoned itself. Roll dice as if the
biting unit had been struck by a poisoned weapon with as many
Poison Points as are in the bitten unit's Poison rating.
poisons do not kill their targets but have other dangerous
effects. These poisons render their victims Exhausted
and Unconscious in the same manner but they have a final stage
other than death. The Giant Jelly Blok, for instance,
has a poison that eventually paralyzes its victims.
The poison from the bite of a zombie, werewolf, vampire, or
Timmy will eventually turn victims into zombies, werewolves,
vampires, and Timmies if the poison doesn't wear off in time.
history progresses, new kinds of weapons are developed which
have an extremely high rate of fire, significantly changing
the tactics of battle. Rather than sighting a target
and taking a shot, a soldier with an Automatic Weapon has
the option of just spraying a whole area with gunfire and
hoping he hits something important.
typical Automatic Weapon has three fire settings: one-shot,
three-round burst, and full-auto. Any properly-trained
minifig can switch instantly to any fire setting; minifigs
unfamiliar with Automatic Weapons may have to take -1MP"
each time they switch settings, if they can figure it out
Automatic Weapon has two UR statistics. One-shot attacks
use the first UR, and are handled as a normal ranged attack.
Three-round bursts and full-auto shots are considered Automatic
Fire, which uses the second 'Auto' UR listing. Auto
UR is higher than a weapon's standard UR, because a high rate
of fire multiplies the effect of the weapon's recoil.
three-round burst is used to attack a single target three
times. Each round is rolled separately against the weapon's
Auto UR, doing normal damage. If multiple shots hit
the target, they do Cumulative Damage.
fire is used to attack an area rather than a single target.
The area is determined by the range of the weapon and the
arc through which the attacker swings the barrel. For
every fifteen degrees of firing arc, there is a -1 Skill penalty
to hit. (This is just one more reason why it's nice
to have a modified 30-60 triangle, as described above in the
Geometric NearMiss rules.) The
attacker may attack as wide an area as he wishes, even to
the extent of spinning all the way around, but keep in mind
that the more area he covers, the less likely he is to hit
anything important. If a troop weapon is used in full-auto
fire, its clip is emptied and a minifig must spend a full
turn replacing the clip before the weapon can be fired again.
Fortunately, minfigs always seem to have extra clips handy.
Automatic vehicle weapons are fed with belts or high-capacity
energy mags and so can be used in full-auto fire every turn.
a unit makes a full-auto attack, the player must make an Attack
Roll for every destructible target in the attack area, at
the weapon's Auto UR, minus Skill penalties for the size of
the attack area. Most normal ranged attack modifiers
apply, except that the attacker takes no penalty for objects
that he can't see (making this a good way to defend yourself
when you're attacked by Stealth snipers). Friendly and
neutral targets in the attack area are just as likely to take
fire as the enemy targets, so be careful!
all battles are fought on bare asphalt plains. In fact,
Troopers very rarely have any interest in conquering asphalt
plains. This is because there are no trees, small furry
animals, or innocent bystanders to take stray bullets and get
caught in explosions. As such, they often find themselves
dealing with rough terrain.
and vehicles' movement rates are modified depending on the
type of terrain they're traversing. Minifigs moving
uphill take a -1" movement penalty. Moving up a
steep grade (45 degrees or greater) gives a -2" penalty.
Moving downhill gives a +1" bonus to movement, and moving
down a steep grade gives +2" to movement. Minifigs
moving along a well-paved road or path gain +1" to movement.
These modifiers are doubled for vehicles. Moving in,
into, or out of liquid or swampy terrain (i.e. water, mud,
quicksand, chocolate pudding) is done at half speed.
Falling or rising underwater is done at a maximum of one story
(six brix) of height per turn.
Minifigs can jump 1" in height and half their Movement
in length. This is part of normal movement, and costs
just as much as running or walking the same distance.
Minifigs can hop onto or over any obstacle two brix high or
less at no penalty. Obstacles two to five brix tall
must be climbed over, which costs 2" of movement.
Objects more than five brix tall are impassible. Walk around
vehicle's ability to drive over obstacles depends on so many
factors that there's only one way to see if a vehicle can
drive over an obstacle: Run the vehicle into the obstacle.
If the front bumper doesn't clear the obstacle, then you have
a collision. If it hits the tires or treads of your
vehicle (or the legs of your robot), then you may be able
to drive over it. A vehicle can drive over objects up
to ¼ the height of its tires, treads, or legs at full
speed; objects up to ½ the height of tires, treads,
or legs can be driven over at half speed. Once you've
gotten the front tires over the obstacle, check to make sure
the chassis between the front and back tires has enough ground
clearance to clear the obstacle - if your vehicle 'bottoms
out,' you're stuck there until somebody thinks of a way to
get you off of the obstacle!
ground vehicle may 'jump' if it flies off a ramp that is at
least as long as the vehicle chassis. A jumping vehicle
will tend to fly as many inches before hitting the ground
as were in its speed when it left the ramp. Vehicles
jumping from higher surfaces to lower surfaces, or from lower
surfaces to higher surfaces, will fly farther or shorter distances;
you will have to make a judgment call for each specific case.
You may have to make a Piloting Roll and use NearMiss calculations
to decide where the vehicle lands on more difficult jumps.
A ground vehicle cannot turn, accelerate, or decelerate while
a desperate situation, a minifig or animal (any living creature
- no androids) can put forth Extra Effort, either giving itself
an additional 5" of Movement or giving itself 1 extra
point of Power. At the end of the turn, it must roll
1d6 - if it rolls a 4 or lower, then the unit is Stunned from
exhaustion. If a Stunned unit puts forth Extra Effort,
it can behave as if it were not Stunned, but at the end of
the turn it must roll a 6 on 1d6 or it falls Unconscious.
to further his Civilization's cause, a Trooper is forced to
take some action besides moving or attacking. This should
generally be avoided, because moving and attacking are very
dear to the Troopers' hearts. Any actions that take
time away from these two behaviors make Troopers unhappy and
cause them to question their commanders' competence.
the needs of victory often take precedence over the concerns
of morale, and Troopers must sometimes act against their better
instincts and take a Non-Combat Action. Almost anything
that a normal person could do, a Trooper can do. Usually
the Trooper can perform a Non-Combat Action without any trouble.
If for some reason you want to try something that seems especially
difficult, you and your opponent will have to decide on a
difficulty rating for it (on a case-by-case basis) and then
roll a Skill Roll against it.
There are all kinds of Non-Combat Actions. Civilians
go around holding conversations and attending to their dreary
jobs. Slaves will traipse around picking up the debris
of battle. Medix will attend to the vivisection of the
dying. Soldiers will try to disarm the MkIII Explosives
that inevitably get glommed onto their heads.
Most Non-Combat Actions cost 1" of movement. That
is to say, taking that action took a little bit of time, and
now the soldier has a little less time to spend on moving
around. Things like pulling a lever, opening a door,
standing up or sitting down, and picking up or setting it
down objects fall into this category. Other actions
may take a whole movement phase and possibly prevent a unit
from making any attacks that turn, such as operating a computer,
taking off a pair of pants, or chewing out a soldier when
you bust him back down to private. If the action is
something that a soldier could still do at a dead run, then
it doesn't slow him down any. Actions like this include
shouting orders, dropping an object already in hand, sneezing,
slapping oneself about the face, etc.
Troopers driving vehicles don't usually take a lot of Non-Combat
Actions, because they're busy driving vehicles. In the
unlikely event that a driver finds himself in the position
to take a Non-Combat Action while driving, the rules are a
little different. Any action that would normally take
a -1" movement penalty now doubles the vehicle's TurnRate.
Any action that takes a whole turn now prevents the vehicle
from turning entirely (the driver is steering with his knees).
is fun, and building with plastic brix is fun. What
if you could do both at the same time? Now you can!
There's no reason the building has to stop when the fighting
begins. The nature of plastic brix offers the enterprising
commander a chance to modify the terrain in far more constructive
ways than just blasting huge craters in it and littering it
with smoking debris. Slaves can be sent out to collect
loose Blox and pile them into walls for fortification or stairs
for overcoming obstacles. Mechanix can scavenge the
debris from crashed vehicles to build "like-new"
vehicles. Medix can gather up the scattered body parts
of their deceased comrades and sew up some temporary vivisect
zombies. What other wargame offers that kind of interactivity?
Here are the rules that tell you how to move those Brix into
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